Salting reinvents itself: science and tradition facing the Mediterranean
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Salting reinvents itself: science and tradition facing the Mediterranean

Laura Puig

Journalist
03 September 2026 - 13: 13

Dolia 2026 will convert again the gastronomy at a meeting point between tradition, knowledge, and territory. The next September 4th in the Teulada Moraira AuditoriumThe 15th edition, under the motto «Dolia, Mare Nostrum/Mare Moscatus»It will focus on salt, salted foods and their connection to the Mediterranean and the Muscat of Alexandria grape.

They will play a leading role in this dialogue. Tony Pérez Marcoschef, sommelier and specialist in cured meats, and Josep Bernabeu Mestre, professor of History of Science and National Gastronomy Award for Research and Innovation. Both will accompany Evarist miralles en «La Mar Salà», a culinary exhibition that will bring technique, science and tradition to the Dolia stage.

Dolia brings the salting tradition into the 21st century

To Tony Pérez MarcosThe future of salted fish lies in respecting an ancestral technique while continuing to research it. For over fifteen years, a salting process has been developed. "half salt" in which factors such as the selection of the fish, air and salt times or humidity allow the product to maintain a greater prominence.

"Excessive curing and salting leads to a stage where the product ceases to prevail and the salt takes center stage."

This quest is also behind one of their new projects: a cured tuna belly which aims to preserve the fat infiltration of the piece and find the right point of maturation without resorting to excessively long curing times.

To Josep Bernabeu MestreThat ability to evolve without breaking with inherited knowledge represents precisely one of the messages that Dolia must convey.

"The show cooking on the 4th with Evarist Miralles should serve, fundamentally, to demonstrate that it is possible to innovate from tradition. Not only is it possible, but it is necessary to do so."

Salting: Between Flavor, Science, and Health

En DoliaTony's technical expertise will meet Josep's scientific and nutritional perspective. Bernabeu points out that salted fish has historically been part of the Mediterranean diet and provides... quality proteins, omega-3, vitamins and mineralsalthough its sodium content makes moderate consumption necessary.

Its value also lies in its taste. The loss of water concentrates the flavor and transforms the texture of the fish, while its ability to contribute umami has sparked the interest of contemporary cuisine.

"I believe we have now discovered the true culinary treasure that salted fish represents from an organoleptic point of view. Ultimately, they are a hallmark of our cultural identity."

Tony emphasizes all the work that goes into achieving that result. The raw material, the harvesting, the control of the water and air, and the drying process are all crucial for obtaining a good salted product.

"The concern lies in developing and imagining how we can eat fish in the 21st century using the techniques left to us by the Phoenicians and Romans, taking them practically to haute cuisine."

Mare Nostrum and Mare Moscatus are located in Dolia

The motto «Dolia, Mare Nostrum/Mare Moscatus» It raises one of the major themes of this edition: the dialogue between the salted fish of the Mediterranean pantry and the Muscat grapes from Teulada.

Bernabeu defines it as a "pairing by contrast"The salt concentration of the fish mitigates the sweetness of the muscatel, while the natural sugar of the grape softens the impact of the salt and refreshes the palate.

"The Muscatel also contributes that subtle mineral and saline background touch that creates a kind of union with the iodine aromas and nuances of the salting and with the floral, citrus and refreshing aromas of the grape."

That meeting between sea, salt and muscatel It will arrive on the stage of «La Mar Salà», where Tony Pérez Marcos and Josep Bernabeu Mestre will accompany Evarist Miralles to bring to the public all the knowledge that exists behind these products.

"It's essential that Alere/Dolia can share these advances and improvements through a cooking demonstration. Gastronomy is fashionable, but perhaps there's still a lack of culinary culture."

Dolia to preserve a heritage and make it evolve

Salted meats are also part of Mediterranean gastronomic heritageFor generations they were an important source of protein, and preservation techniques using salt and brine allowed for the use of seafood and the development of a crop food that continues to be part of the identity of the Marina regions.

For Bernabeu, recovering that knowledge should not be an exercise in nostalgia, but an opportunity to revalue locally sourced fish and move towards a eating healthier and more sustainable.

"We have lost part of that culture of buying fish at the market and locally sourced fish. We must recover it, but not with a nostalgic sense, but as a living heritage."

Tony agrees that keeping salting alive requires evolving it. Collaboration between producers, chefs, and researchers allows for the refinement of traditional techniques and the development of new preparations capable of reaching new consumers.

"That's where the future and the craftsmanship of this product lie. We must evolve it to reach more consumers."

That dialogue between tradition and innovation will be precisely one of the central themes of Dolia 2026On September 4th, Tony Pérez Marcos and Josep Bernabeu Mestre will combine their knowledge with Evarist Miralles' kitchen to show that behind salted fish there is technique, science, culture and a Mediterranean heritage that still has a great future.

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  1. Vicenta Vidal Oller says:

    It's outrageous that Moraira wasn't mentioned once, as if it didn't exist! The sea, fishing, salted fish, and even Muscat grapes are all part of the identity of those of us born and/or living in Moraira. Humiliating and ignoring the people of Moraira won't make people come from wherever others want them to be. Enjoy your meal and don't get indigestion!